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Guest blog:
R.I. Students Abroad

John Riley, Madrid

John Riley, Madrid
American University

May 24, 2006

Advice for the Spanish Traveler

If you are ever going to travel to Madrid, you will want to see the usual sites that guidebooks mention: the Prado, the painting "Guernica" at the Reina Sofia, the Thyssen-Bornemisza art museum, and other monuments in the center of the city.

But here are some other places you might be interested in (Be warned, Madrid is a walking city. You can take the Metro to places, but then you will have to exit the station and walk at least a half-mile to your destination.):

1) Palacio Real (Metro stop: Opera, Line "R" or Plaza de Espana, Line 10). The former Royal Palace is one of Madrid's major sites, and is very close to the site of the modern-day Senate. There are citywide bus tours offered by different companies (you will have to register for them) that start from the Palacio Real. There is also a garden with statues of famous Spanish rulers situated around the perimeter, so even if you do not go on the bus tour, you can appreciate a stroll around the neatly trimmed greenery.

2) Parque del Buen Retiro (Metro stop: Retiro, Line 2). This large park, located in the middle of Madrid, attracts thousands of people every day. It's a perfect place just to relax and take in scenery. There are running trails for people who want to get in a morning workout, monuments as well as statues of historical or artistic importance for history buffs and public gardens for nature lovers. Visitors can rent boats and take them out on a lake in the center of the park. Artisans and "street" artists line the walkways of Retiro, selling their creations. One of the artists I saw did "splash art" with spraypaint, and, only using the paint and different cut-out shapes of paper, managed to create paintings that look like they were done with oil paint on a canvas. These "starving" artists certainly have talent, and the average cost of a painting was 10 euros. Even if you don't buy anything, it's still fascinating to watch the process of how a painting is made.

3) The Madrid Zoo (Metro Stop: Batan, Line 10). Located in the Casa de Campo, this zoo (which I blogged about earlier) has almost every type of animal imaginable. It also has an aquarium with live dolphin and sea lion shows and attractions for the kids. For those Rhode Islanders reading this blog, I would say it is like a mix between Sea World and Roger Williams Park Zoo. Definitely something to do on a "low-key" day.

4) Plaza Mayor (Metro stop: Sol, Line 3). What happens in Plaza Mayor varies from day to day. From having bull fights in a specially-constructed ring (usually imported from Navarra or the north of Spain, as outside of that region, bullfighting is not popular in Spain) to horse shows to fashion shows or displays of artwork, there is usually some new project being constructed for some show at Plaza Mayor. However, even on days when the square is bare, it's a beautiful piece of architecture and the perfect place for an afternoon stroll.

For food, Madrid has any number of restaurants. Although it's a bit pricey, La Paella Real, next to El Palacio Real, is a wonderful restaurant that's well worth the cost. Plus, the traveler gets to sample the customary Spanish dish: paella, or rice with vegetables and your choice of meat. Be warned--to show the freshness of the food, Spanish restaurants serve seafood like shrimp with the heads still attached! You'll just have to shell the shrimp yourself.

VIPS, which is like a mini-CVS, is the store where you can buy almost everything. It also has a VIPS restaurant, which serves burgers, chicken and more "American"-style food. The VIPS on Calle Velazquez (Metro: Avenida de America), near my school, also had two additional restaurants, including an Italian eatery, in the basement. The food is reasonably priced at all VIPS establishments.

And if you don't feel like that, you can always avail yourself of one of the many tapas bars around Madrid. Usually set up like small taverns, these bars serve alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages and tapas, or reasonably-priced appetizers ranging from Spanish omelette (potatoes and eggs) to jamon serrano (pieces of cured ham). Most of the places will have a sign outside advertising "tapas."

For a good dessert or snack, go to the Chocolateria San Gines, located in the alley off of Calle Arenal next to the Church of San Gines, where you can order churros, or long strips of fried bread, with chocolate. The chocolate comes in cups like hot chocolate, but has the consistency of a thick pudding.

Churros.jpg

Try them--they're delicious! And you can also justify indulging yourself, because you'll burn the calories by just walking from place to place through Madrid.

For souvenirs, there are many stores around Sol with good-quality, cheap goods. You can also buy souvenirs at pricier stores in the areas of Serrano and Colon, if you want. Some people choose to buy items off of street vendors, and you can--but be aware that not all vendors are the same, and some will try to cheat you, especially if you stand out as a tourist.

For nightlife, the bars and clubs tend to be concentrated in Sol or along Gran Via, a major artery in Madrid. The neighborhoods of Alonso Martinez and Chueca also have great club life and bars ranging from "hole-in-the-wall" places to posh Manhattan-style lounges. Kapital, located in Atocha, is a popular seven-story club with a different style of music on each floor. It can be pricey, but is a guaranteed night of fun if you do go. On Sunday, while you recover from staying out late, you can sleep in, or, if you're an early bird, you can head over to El Rastro, a huge flea market where almost everything from clothes to snack food is on sale. The streets around La Latina and the Plaza de Cascorro, where the vendors set up their stalls, are packed every week.

If you do go to Madrid, don't stress about trying to see and do everything. The attitude of the average Spaniard is much more relaxed than that of most Americans. If you don't see something or get somewhere, there is plenty to do to occupy your time, and you can always re-attempt your endeavor at a later time. Above all, enjoy! As they say in Spain, "no pasa nada."

Posted by John Riley  at 5:44 PM | Permalink

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May 16, 2006

A Day at the Zoo

Sorry about the lapse in blogging, but the last few weeks have been so busy that I literally have not had time to think. First, my parents visited for Easter. Then, our group traveled to Northern Spain and Portgual. Afterwards, I spent a weekend in Dublin, Ireland and came back just in time for exam week!

When my parents came to visit, I wanted to show them around the city, so I took them to art museums and we went on a bus tour of the city. But one day, we wanted to do something new and unusual. So, we went to the Madrid Zoo and Aquarium at Batan, in the middle of the Casa de Campo.

The zoo has animals from every continent, and each continent has its own designated area of the park. The zoo reminded me of Roger Williams Park Zoo in Providence, but had some animals that you don't usually find in Rhode Island.

However, our relaxing day soon became a bit stressful, as both my father and I tried to get a picture of the elusive red panda, or firefox. Red pandas like to climb trees and hide in the branches, and despite their bright red fur, they are good at camoflauging themselves. Every time we walked past the section designated for red pandas, one would be in the tree, hiding and with its back to us. All of our attempts to capture the animal on film were thwarted. After about 12 failed shots from every angle imaginable, I was ready to jump the fence and go after the red panda, but patience eventually paid off and I got the shot I wanted.

Red%20Panda-400.jpg
Got ya (finally)!

Here are some of the other animals we saw:

Flamingoes-400.jpg

Pink%20birds-400.jpg

Meerkat-400.jpg
This is a meerkat, the animal that served as the basis for the character Timon in "The Lion King." In real life, meerkats move really fast and like to burrow through the dirt. Think of them as the hyper and overactive children of the savannah.

Kangaroo-400.jpg

Peacock-400.jpg

Koala-400.jpg
This picture didn't come out so well, because the koalas were behind glass. They may look cute, but there's a reason they're behind glass--koalas have sharp claws and short tempers. They can be some of the fiercest animals in the world!

Tapir-400.jpg
This is a tapir.

Wallaby-400.jpg
A wallaby, similar to but not exactly like, a kangaroo.

Kudu-400.jpg
A kudu. This one has a target-shaped mark around its behind, which is kind of ironic considering it probably attracts the attention of hunters even more, instead of camoflauging the kudu.

Nilgo-400.jpg
This is a nilgo.

Ox-400.jpg

To summarize, the zoo at Casa de Campo is certainly one of those "family fun" places to visit in Madrid. Although it can be a bit difficult to find, turn left once you exit the Metro station and keep walking. You will start seeing signs that will direct you to the zoo's entrance. Disfrutate! (Enjoy!)

Posted by John Riley  at 3:14 PM | Permalink

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April 10, 2006

Revisiting Morocco

Having been asked by close friends and family members to explain more about my trip to Morocco and the Sahara, I have decided to write a short entry on riding a camel, since it is such a rare experience and Rhode Islanders are probably more interested in that.

First, to review, we woke up at around 4 or 5 in the morning to the sound of a camel braying. I jumped at this sound, since it was loud and very close to our enclave of tents. At first, I didn't know what to think. Then, I had this vision of some wild desert animal tearing through the Berber camp and destroying everything in its path until being tackled by 34 American University students and a program assistant. When I realized it was a camel, I relaxed and tried to shield my ears. One of the Berbers then gave the offending camel some food and quieted it.

As we left our tents and headed out of our camp and into the dark morning, we were surprised to see a pack of 40 or so camels seated on the ground. Our program director had told us we would "wake up early and see the sunrise." But she didn't say anything about mounting any animals. Some of the camels were chewing cud or some leaves when we approached, which didn't make me very comfortable, since I know that camels can spit very far (which they love to do). Most of the AU students were eyeing these "horses of the desert" suspiciously. One by one, the Berbers began taking students and plopping them on top of the seated camels. There were five camels seated in a line in front of me; I sat down on top of the third camel and waited for further instructions.

The saddles on top of the camels were these large, triangle-shaped contraptions draped across either side of the camel, with a metal "T" mounted in the front. The saddles were covered by blankets or mini-rugs. I could see some desert shrub leaves and greens shoved in between the blanket and the saddle of the camel in front of me. The leaves provide extra padding and can also be used to feed or persuade a stubborn camel to keep moving ahead, if needed. Some of the camels were already acting up when we arrived, so I kept wondering whether we would need to resort to "carrot on a string" tactics to urge along these restless beings.

After everyone mounted their camels, the Berbers then went down the lines of camels. They tapped the first camel in our mini-caravan to signal that it was time to rise. The camel rose, hind legs first, and Liz, the first in our line, went flying up into the air. Luckily, she held on tight. Then, the camel rose on its front legs until it was perfectly upright. Then Marissa's camel rose in the same manner, and then mine, until all the camels were upright and all five AU students were holding on tight. And it was necessary to hold on tight. If you've never ridden a camel, you should know that it feels like riding on a rocky boat. Nobody got motion sickness, but every step the camels took in the soft Sahara sand was another lurch forward. Going downhill was worse. When the camels reached the dunes and started trudging downhill, I fell against the metal "T" and felt like I was losing control. My camel also had this bad habit of wanting to run ahead of the other camels in front of it (Just my luck that I get the camel who wants to win the Olympic 100-meter dash). But since all the camels are tethered together, this complicates things. Fortunately, I didn't fall off and my camel seemed content to just poke its nose into the saddle of the camel in front of it and slightly molest Marissa. No harm, no foul. I eventually relaxed and just tried to enjoy the desert in the dark, lit only by the stars. It was fun, and I eventually got to sense when and in which direction my camel was going to move as I rode.

Marissa%20camel-400.jpg
Here is a picture I borrowed from Marissa, showing us in the camel caravan.

Camel%20silhouettes-400.jpg
And this is one borrowed from Jessica that captures some good silhouettes of us against the early morning sky, riding our camels through the desert.

Just before the sun rose, we stopped at a very tall dune and, one by one, dismounted, starting with the first camel (front legs first, followed by hind legs) and continuing down the line. There, we climbed up the dune and watched the beautiful sunrise. It was fun running up the dune, but it was very steep and I still found it difficult (though less so than my fellow participants) to run through the sand despite having run cross-country for many years. I would like to see a state meet cross-country course on a sand dune. Now THAT would be a challenge!

After staying there for about an hour, we trudged downhill and mounted the camels once more before returning to our camp. I really liked riding the camel, but I think I prefer more modern forms of transportation, which can at least ensure a smooth ride and prevent "saddle soreness" from setting in afterward.

Posted by John Riley  at 5:44 PM | Permalink

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Your writing about your camel ride in the Sahara was very descriptive. I can just picture you on a camel, John. You better come home with a lot of pictures or I will send you back.

Uncle Billy

Posted by: Bill McKenna at April 13, 2006 10:42 PM

HI John!
Your blogs are terrific. I've enjoyed the personal as well as the political insights. The photos are also gorgeous. I agree with Bill that you'd better be prepared to do a travologue for the family when you get back.
I was especially interested in Morocco. As you noted, many times the populace has more sense than the government: able to separate Americans from American policy.
Have a good visit with your folks next week!
Margie

Posted by: margie at April 14, 2006 08:49 AM

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April 8, 2006

Nationalism, Prejudice and Identity

We have been talking a lot about nationalism in class lately, both in seminar and my security issues class. Nationalism is actually being discussed by many people in Spain, from teenagers on the street to people riding the Metro to work. I think this is due partly to the ETA ceasefire that I blogged about earlier, and the response from different factions within and outside of the government. Recently, I have seen some posters hanging in the windows of some businesses reading: "Zapatero: Traidor" or "Zapatero: Traitor." Clearly, these people do not like the fact that the president and his party are trying to negotiate with ETA to work toward establishing a permanent peace. This sentiment is understandable, especially from the point of view of those who lost family members or friends in any of the ETA terrorist attacks.

But what struck me most about this situation with ETA is that it has stirred up a lot of "anti-nationalist" sentiment. I use "anti-nationalist" in quotes because it is really more in opposition to Basque or Catalonian nationalism, or anything that does not adhere to mainstream Spanish "Castilian" culture. The extent of this anti-minority, pro-Castilian feeling seems to be escalating, much like isolationism and nativist sentiment have been awoken by the recent debates in the U.S. over the Dubai port deal and immigration from Latin America.

I was a bit unsettled by the emergence in Spain of this nativist sentiment. One of the host brothers from our program, Danny, said that after the March 11 attacks by Al-Qaeda, there was a resurgence of anti-Basque sentiment, due in part to the fact that the government kept insisting (despite evidence to the contrary) that ETA was behind the attacks. Danny said that he heard some people start shouting anti-Catalonian slogans, even though there was no logical link between the Catalonians (who have been very peaceful in their quest for independence) and the Basques, let alone between the Basques and the train bombings. It apparently didn't matter to those people: they voiced their hate for the Basques and decided that, while they were at it, they could also voice hate and make violent threats against other non-Castilian groups. And this is why I think the re-emergence of this form of nationalism is so unsettling.

Anyone who studies Spain's history knows that for many years, Spain was ruled by Francisco Franco, a dictator who tried to form a unified, fascist Spain where non-Castilian national identities were almost completely eliminated. Spain's political and economic position from the end of the Spanish Civil War in the late 1930s to the 1950s, when the borders and markets were opened to foreigners, also exacerbated the situation, resulting in a very homogenous culture. These elements have contributed to a strong pro-Castilian nationalism, but hostility towards Basque, Catalonian or Galician nationalism. It also carries over in other ways: for example, there is a lot of prejudice against Moroccans or North Africans due in part to Spain's history under Muslim and North African rule and to the desire of some people to ignore Spain's African roots in order to establish a "European" Spain that is largely Castilian and Roman Catholic, and nothing more. This has been exacerbated in recent years by increased immigration from North Africa and tensions between native Spaniards and those immigrants.

Not all Spaniards share these sentiments, just as not all Americans express anti-immigrant feelings. But I think that both societies still have much progress to make in the way that they deal with minorities. One of my classmates lent me a very interesting book on race in America, entitled "Why Are All the Black Kids Sitting Together in the Cafeteria?" It was very informative and hit the nail on the head regarding some of the issues we talk about (or don't talk about) concerning prejudicial attitudes in America. Reading that book, seeing the immigration debates in the U.S. on TV and the Internet, and hearing and seeing the Castilian "purists" in the news certainly started me thinking about the rhetoric we use towards minority groups, whether they be racial, religious, ethnic or defined by some other social construct.

These issues have also caused me to think about one of my friends. An Asian-American studying abroad in Spain, she is enjoying herself, but is shocked at the often prejudicial attitudes or comments she will receive from ordinary Spaniards on the street. She is Korean, and is tired of being referred to as "china" (pronounced "CHEE-na") or Chinese. I will grant you that there are very few Asians in Spain, especially when compared to other countries, and some of these comments or gestures (such as slanting their eyes) may just be ignorance due to a lack of exposure. The people doing this may not even know or understand how hurtful their attitudes can be. My friend, though offended, is open-minded and tries to understand the social context in which most Spaniards are operating. And, as I mentioned before, there are others who do not make the comments or gestures who just treat people as people.

Regardless, I do think some discussion of these issues is warranted. In fact, by comparing the social situations in Spain, or the United States, or in any other country, we may even be able to single out what certain countries or cultures do things better, and where they fall short. Either way, it would be a lot more constructive then playing the "blame and stereotype" game that usually occurs when such issues are discussed. It also keeps us grounded in reality: as much as we might not want to admit it, we (as in human beings) still have much to learn in the way of tolerance. This can be applied to any social construct, whether racial, ethnic, religious, or even in terms of lifestyle or others' political affiliations (for example, a liberal being open-minded towards a conservative's ideas or beliefs).

But life does move on, and not all is bleak or hopeless. My friend and I are enjoying our time in Spain, we are taking the good with the bad and are looking forward to more exciting adventures and experiences.
Until I write again: hasta luego.

Posted by John Riley  at 2:03 PM | Permalink

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Castilian nationalism is not the same than Spanish nationalism.

The BNP is not the same than English Independece Party.

Spain used the Castilian identity to build it own identity.
Spain stole us our language, I supose you use to say Spanish language when it´s Castilian language.

Posted by: castilian at June 9, 2006 05:07 PM

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April 1, 2006

I rode a camel through the Sahara!

Sahara%20Sunrise-400.jpg

I just returned from a week-long trip to Morocco and it was unlike anything I had ever imagined!

We flew from Madrid to Marrakech, in the southwest of Morocco, and from there took a bus into the mountains to Ourzazate, a town near the edge of the Sahara. We were accompanied by a Berber tour guide named Omar, who took us to his tribe's camp in the southeast of Morocco. The Berbers were extremely hospitable, and allowed our group of 37 students (some people brought along their significant others) and instructors to ride their camels through the Sahara.

After being awoken by the braying of camels (which sounded like a cross between a car horn and someone being murdered) at 4 in the morning, we mounted our camels and rode until we stopped at the top of a dune 60 kilometers from the Algerian border and watched the sun rise. Sunlight mixed with shadow, creating a stunning view of the Sahara in the early morning hours.

Sahara%20Sunrise%202-400.jpg

One of the other things I noticed while in Morocco was the extent of poverty in some of the cities we visited. Near the tourist attractions, Moroccan children surrounded us and held out their hands for money or other tokens. Our group gave them ballpoint pens, which are expensive for Moroccan children to buy when attending school. The children would run at top speed to snatch the pens from our hands or the hands of others who were too slow. Although it was difficult for some members of our group to see so many children begging on the street or following us around, I think the contrast between the places we visited and the wonderful treatment we received in the hotels or at the Berber outpost made us realize how fortunate we are to have this opportunity. It was a humbling yet gratifying experience. I never would have thought I'd be able to travel to Africa, let alone ride a camel in the middle of the Sahara. I am grateful that American University's study abroad program has allowed me to take advantage of these opportunities.

Landscapes-400.jpg


Oasis-400.jpg

Morocco is a beautiful country, and has many diverse landscapes, ranging from the desert to the mountains to lush, green fields to cool, shady oases. The temperature varies throughout the day, from baking hot to freezing cold, especially in the desert regions at night.

Moroccan food generally consists of steamed vegetables, spiced meats, flavored jams and pastes and couscous or rice. With the exception of one day, I luckily managed to avoid getting sick from the change of diet and was careful to not to drink unfiltered water. Some others in the group had a little more trouble adjusting to the food, but for the most part, we thoroughly enjoyed ourselves.

I think traveling to Morocco also shines some light on parts of Spanish culture, especially those elements that were of North African or Muslim origin. For example, in Spain, people are very individualistic and there is less emphasis placed on group work. This idea of rugged individualism is understandable if you consider that Moroccans or other desert peoples who crossed into Spain in the 8th century came from a culture where they had to brave the sun and the elements, without help from anyone else. In places such as Cordoba or Granada, where Muslims built fountains or designed gardens filled with running water, you can see why the presence of potable water was almost like a godsend for them. After spending a couple of hours in the midafternoon in Morocco, especially in the desert, it is easier to understand why they constructed such places as shrines to this valuable natural resource.


Ourzazate%20plaza-400.jpg
This is a view of Ourzazate from above.

Star%20in%20Sand-400.jpg

This is also in Ourzazate. The diagram of a star surrounded by Arabic writing scratched into the land reads "The Land is Ours." There was some debate about the star's meaning. Some people thought it was pointed in the direction of Mecca, the holy Muslim city and might be used as a guide.


Berber%20camp-400.jpg
Our camp in the desert.


Berber%20Tent-400.jpg
The inside of my tent.


Berber%20dancing-400.jpg
The Berbers entertained us by playing instruments
during and after dinner. Here, four girls from our
group are learning a Berber dance while the musicians play.

I would recommend Morocco. I really enjoyed my time there, and the people are very friendly. The traveler would have to be careful to respect the culture there (the girls on our trip did not wear very revealing shirts in the cities and were careful not to expose themselves despite the heat), but only one very irate man in a bazaar in Marrakech yelled at us for being American and the U.S.'s involvement in Iraq. While our country's foreign policy may be distasteful to the majority of Moroccans, most people we met were friendly and could separate the tourists from the policies or actions of their respective home countries.

I would definitely love to return to Morocco some day and see some of the coastal cities, such as Casablanca, since our trip focused on the southern landlocked part of the country.

Posted by John Riley  at 10:54 AM | Permalink

Comments

Enjoyed reading about your Moroccan trip on
camelback. Two modern young women explorers who have written marvelous books/articles of long foot
and camel treks across N. Africa are:

LC@LorraineChittock.com
and
Arita Baaijens at Baaijens@xs4all.nl

Both send a newsletter if you send them your
address. Lorraine is American and Arita is
Dutch.

Posted by: m.e.filer at April 4, 2006 07:40 PM

What a great place to visit. The Berber's seems like
great hosts. I've always wanted to visit Morocco and might now that I've read your piece. Is it realtively reasonable once you are there?

Have a great time.

Posted by: D Murphy at April 6, 2006 09:20 AM

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March 23, 2006

Avila, Segovia, and St. Teresa minus a finger

Part of our 6-credit seminar on the Politics, History, Economics and Culture of Spain focuses on Spain during the Golden Age and the Spanish Renaissance. One group of writers during this period were the mystics, who believed they could come closer to and experience God through prayer, self-sacrifice and self-castigation or punishment. The mystics believed that by foregoing bodily desires, they could repent for their sins and be more open to God's will and word. Saint Teresa of Avila, one of the most famous mystics, is said to have experienced extreme pain and ecstasy during her experience with God. According to legend, an angel pierced her heart with an arrow. Saint Teresa later wrote books such as El Libro de la Vida, or the Book of Life, which detailed her experience with and knowledge of God. We traveled to her hometown of Avila to see what her life might have been like.

When we arrived in Avila, the first thing we noticed was "La Muralla," a massive wall along the perimeter of the city. Nobles, soldiers and members of religious orders, like the order of Carmelite nuns to which Saint Teresa belonged, would have lived inside the wall, while peasants and farmers lived outside.

La%20Muralla-400.jpg


Avila-400.jpg
This is a view of Avila from a hill outside La Muralla.


Petting%20the%20lion-400.jpg
My friend Sunny liked the statue of this lion. There are stone statues lining the streets around churches when one enters Avila.


Bird%20on%20Church-400.jpg
This is a view of the roof of a gothic church from the outside.


Altar%20in%20avila-400.jpg
And this is the inside, where many paintings and statues of religious figures or scenes from the Bible are displayed.


While inside the different churches and buildings in Avila, we saw a painting of Jesus being crucified while wearing a skirt, which is more common in certain Latin American indigenous cultures' depictions of Jesus. So, our guide concluded, the artist was probably Latin American and shipped the painting to Avila to display in the chapel of the church. Many in our group were either shocked to see this, or thought it was funny. It just goes to show that cultural norms and styles differ from place to place.

We then went into a room with artifacts that belonged to St. Teresa. We were not allowed to take photos, unfortunately. But the most shocking thing was that in a display case was a finger. Yes, you heard me correctly, a real, decaying FINGER enclosed in airtight glass. The locals say it is St. Teresa's index finger. Now, I realize the woman had masochistic tendencies due to her mystic beliefs, but somehow taking her finger and enclosing it in glass for all to see seems a little extreme. I only wish I could have taken a picture. It's one of those things you just have to see.


Leaving the chapel of the nine-fingered saint, we then climbed a stone walkway that snaked across the tops of buildings in Avila. From there, we could see spectacular views of the city.

View%20from%20Cliff%20walk-400.jpg


Plaza%20de%20avila-400.jpg


After leaving Avila, we traveled to nearby Segovia, which is much smaller. Segovia's prime tourist attractions are the Roman aqueduct and the palace known as the Alcazar.

Aqueduct-400.jpg

Here is the aqueduct. Local folklore ignores the presence of the Romans and says that the aqueduct was built by the devil when he made a bet with a local woman to give him her soul in exchange for finding an easier way to transport water instead of carrying it back by hand. The legend says that the woman then tricked the devil and he ended up building the aqueduct, but failing to win the woman's soul.


Statue%20in%20Aqueduct-400.jpg

This is a close-up of the aqueduct. Our program assistant Cristina said the Spanish flag was draped across the statue of Mary and the Baby Jesus in remembrance of the two-year anniversary of the March 11, 2004 subway attacks committed by Al-Qaeda.


Gothic%20Cathedral-400.jpg
This is one of many gothic-style churches and cathedrals throughout Segovia.


Alcazar-400.jpg
The Alcazar served as a palace and residence for the kings of the Castille region. Each new monarch added new parts to the building, transforming it into a massive palace and fortress.


View%20from%20Alcazar-400.jpg
This is a view from the Alcazar, surveying the land below. The Alcazar stands more than 1000 meters tall.

Posted by John Riley  at 9:32 PM | Permalink

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An End to Terrorism?

Spain, especially Madrid, is on edge. The Basque separist and nationalist group ETA (Euskadi Ta Askatasuna), has just announced a truce with the Spanish government. ETA, which has committed hundreds of different attacks on Spanish state buildings, local businesses and tourist spots, is responsible for an estimated 800 deaths since the group´s appearance during the 1960s as a response to former dictator Francisco Franco´s repression of national identities. I was touring radio station Onda Cero yesterday when the news was first announced.

According to news sources, ETA vowed yesterday to lay down arms and start a ¨permanent cease-fire¨ starting Friday at midnight. According to the statement released by ETA and read aloud by three masked ETA operatives on a videotape sent to Spanish media outlets, ¨the aim of this decision is to promote a democratic process" in the Basque country. CNN has a translation of the statement up on its website. You can go here and read it.

Reactions to the news have been mixed. While most people are hopeful and excited at the prospect that this form of domestic terrorism will end, government officials are advising caution. ¨Cauteloso,¨ or cautious, is a word being thrown around by every politician and news reporter. In the past, ETA has promised to lay down arms and has broken those promises, or the ¨cease-fire¨ has ended prematurely. The longest truce between the government and ETA lasted for 14 months, starting on September 18, 1998. Some people are wary of anything ETA says, especially because their past actions do not seem to indicate a desire for peace or democracy.

What is clear is that President Jose Luis Rodriguez Zapatero´s PSOE (Partido Socialista Obrero Español) has been trying to negotiate with ETA in order to combat terrorism. Members of the conservative Partido Popular have been critical of Zapatero´s links with ETA, even though the former PP-controlled government under Jose Maria Aznar had also tried to negotiate with ETA in order to restore a state of normalcy so that Spanish citizens would not have to worry about being attacked. However, the PP later adopted a hostile attitude towards the Basque separatists.

After the terrorist attacks of March 11, 2004, which killed 192 people, the Aznar government tried to link the attacks to ETA, even though all the evidence pointed to radical Islamicists tied to Al-Qaeda. As a result of the government´s rush to judgment (and opposition of fellow conservatives, moderates and liberals to Spain´s involvement in the Iraq war), Zapatero the PSOE were elected to power three days later. Many PP politicians and sympathizers still say that ETA was tied to Al-Qaeda, but have been unable to provide evidence to back up those claims. Clearly, though, accusations by government officials only further strained relations and the possibility of peaceful settlements with ETA, which is why Zapatero has been pushing hard for such a cease-fire.

If this cease-fire is successful, it could very well serve as Zapatero´s crowning achievement during his presidency, which has been marked by criticism from the left (who believe he is not being progressive enough) and the right (who are upset about his policies, especially concerning social issues such as gay marriage and the attempt to separate the Catholic Church from state affairs).

Hopefully, ETA is serious about their promise to lay down arms and stop terrorist attacks. People should be cautious and wary, as ETA could rescind the truce if they are not granted certain concessions, ranging from the release of ETA members from prison to a complete withdrawl from Spain and the establishment of an independent Basque nation. However, in a culture where national identities are often looked down upon by other Spaniards (there is much prejudice towards Catalonians, Basques, Morroccans, and other ethnic groups due partly to Spain´s history of isolationism and Franco´s reign and attempts to homogenize Spanish culture), it is clear that conservative elements within the country also need to be willing to extend the olive branch, or else they could risk further alienating the Basques, causing them to end the cease-fire and setting the peace process back for decades. I am sure there is a way to find push forward the peace process without forcing the Spanish government to captiulate to every one of ETA´s demands, but it´s going to require hard work and willingness to compromise--not stubborness or strict adhesion to personal ideologies--on both sides.

Will ETA stop its terrorist attacks permanently? Only time will tell.

Posted by John Riley  at 8:09 AM | Permalink

Comments

Wow, you kids are giving us an education in foreign affairs we're not getting in the paper any more. Good for you!

Posted by: harry at March 23, 2006 08:04 PM

i enjoyed reading your article but i have to greatly disagree...
i know you probably have the greatest intentions but i grew up in euskadi and people don't realize that there will never be peace.
The situation in Euskadi is severe, they are almost adopting this nazi mentality. I know that the recorded numbers of people killed or about 700 or so by ETA but there is much more. There was a guardia civil in my town who was visiting his cousin, and the neighbor dropped a flower pot on his head killng him. These things happen all the time. At school if you happened to inherit a spanish last name or your parents decided to bequith you with a name like maria or susana... you are ostracized and called maqueta...

all though there was no clear connection with al-quada you can't blame aznar for assuming that...
basque youth go to arab nations ALL THE TIME... we work together, they train us on our bomb tactics. I know this sounds far fetched but i'm not lying. Thats why in basque towns teens wear the red and white arafat scarfs you see everywhere. I have an uncle who was a martyr for the basque cause... he was 'recruited' and when he finished high school he left to some arab country.. and came back...
beleive it or not, if you live in the basque country it is a known fact... we are sympathizers with the arabs

you also said that spain IS prejudiced against the catalanes, gallegos, euskaldunes etc. That is not true...
A truer statement would be that they used to be prejudiced when being ruled by a facist dictator.
Give my acurrent example of prejudice,
One example.. i dare you..
there isn't one, the spanish government treats us all the same, we all have equal education, we have our autonomy and our own laws and spaniards pretty much don't interfere with our lives. We are not oppressed by spaniards anymore.. we are oppressed by ourselves, ..
There is no freedom of speech where i lived, there was a dark cloud looming over my town when election day came and don't you dare ask anybody who they are voting for because it is nobody's business,
i had another uncle who was on the other side of the spectrum, and he spoke out against ETA.. he left my town and escaped to France... thats the one thing he should have never done..
The basque country.. better yet a basque town is the last place on earth where you can speak your mind about political issues....

i have some cousins in jail for atentados(terrorist attacks).. do i want them to be released .. no!
i want to be able to see them again but i know that if the spanish government gives into our demands that will only give us more reason to kill.... it will never stop, because we are bred to hate spain since we are little, basques have bigger brains, basques are smarter... bla bla bla...
rojo y amarillo caca de chicillo...
we grow up hearing "erdera ez" (don't speak spanish) in our hall ways.. can you believe that? i don't have the freedom to speak spanish at school?

.. i guess i'm trying to make you realize, that spain is as stupid as you think for assuming that we were connected al-quada...
as zapatero isn't as great as you think he is..
do you really think eta will stop? no! they won't, basque youth leave the country all the time to who knows where and come back feuled to kill..
i hope you regard some of what i said..
and i hope you don't view ETA as the freedom fighters of the basque country because a lot of us would be happier if they were gone....
spain is not a threat to our peace..
we are..
sincerely,
maite

Posted by: maite at May 5, 2006 08:09 PM

Dear Maite,

I was glad to get some feedback from you, since you have firsthand experience with the issue. However, I think my friend Andreiu, who is Catalan, might disagree with you as to whether all Spaniards are still treated equally. His experiences would seem to contradict your claim.

I am glad that you have focused on a major point: only change WITHIN the Basque community can result in true peace. Your quote "Spain is not a threat to our peace...we are" shows that, sadly, that the issue of Basque terrorism is both imperfect and a long way from being solved.

Posted by: John Riley at May 6, 2006 12:22 PM

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March 11, 2006

Life in Madrid

Everything is going well in Madrid. I am currently enjoying one of the most relaxing semesters of my college experience. I'm not sure whether that's a good thing or a bad thing. As I have mentioned before, the pace of life is much slower and the people more easy-going. Unfortunately, I have still not gotten used to how slowly people walk. It drives me crazy when I want to go somewhere and I end up either stuck behind someone who is strolling along, or waiting for some of my fellow program participants who have eagerly adopted this trait.

I am living with a host family in a suburb of Madrid. Technically, we are still inside the city limits, but we are a bit removed from the actual "city center." Sometimes, it takes 40 minutes via Metro to get to school!

We live near the Casa de Campo, which is a large park that spans for miles along the southwest border of Madrid. It reminds me a lot of Rock Creek Park in Washington, D.C. The Casa de Campo has hundreds of entrances along its perimeter, with trails inside that are good for running, biking or taking a stroll. Many housing developments have sprung up near the Casa de Campo in recent years. There are also basketball courts, tennis courts and playgrounds that have been constructed in the area. Below, I have some pictures I have taken of our neighborhood and some of the things that my housemate Jeff and I see every day when we walk down our street to the Metro station.


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This is the wall along the perimeter of the Casa de Campo. There are many "tags" and pictures or murals along the length of the wall.


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I think this view is beautiful. What do you think?

Posted by John Riley  at 2:24 PM | Permalink

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February 21, 2006

Trip to Toledo

Buenos Dias!

I have not written in a long time, but I will keep you updated about what has been going on for the past few weeks.

Part of the semester in Madrid for AU's study abroad program includes trips to other cities in Spain and a trip to Morocco. What is unique about Spain is that every city or region has a distinct language or culture. This fact is plainly obvious every time one picks up a paper or watches the news on TV. Basque, Galician, and Catalonian independence movements have gained momentum, and some people in those regions are demanding that they be allowed to secede from Spain and form their own nations.

One reason why there has been a resurgence of nationalistic pride in recent years is due in part to the rule of Francisco Franco, the dictator of Spain from 1936 to 1975. In order to create a single, unified culture, Franco outlawed the public use of any language besides Castellano, or the traditional Spanish dialect. He was especially repressive toward the Basque, Galician and Catalonian people. Even today, there is a divide between people in those areas who identify as "Spanish" and those who identify as some other nationality.

My teachers in seminar and Basque country classes stress that understanding these differences is essential to understanding Spain. In order to fully "know" the country, one has to investigate and study the country's different regions, as well as the individual cultures in each area. For example, some parts of Spain, including the city of Toledo, have served as centers of Christian, Muslim and Jewish culture as the result of hundreds of years of Muslim rule (from approximately 711 to 1492) prior to the Reconquest and the Inquisition, led by "The Catholic Monarchs" Ferdinand and Isabel.

Enter American University students.

Toledo is about an hour outside of Madrid by bus. The long, winding roads cover mountainous terrain. As we entered Toledo, our bus paused and we were able to get out and take photos of the view.


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In Toledo, there were many examples where one could see a mixture of Arab, Jewish and Christian culture. One such place was St. Mary's Synagogue. Once a Jewish place of worship, the synagogue was taken over by the Muslims. Later, it was turned into a church. This changing pattern of ownership was quite common in many parts of Spain, especially in Toledo or places like Andalucia, or the southern part of Spain that borders the Mediterranean. The walls and columns are covered in geometric patterns and there are many Arabic-style arches, in keeping with the Muslim tradition of not drawing pictures of living beings (and especially of the prophet Muhammed), since only Allah, or God, can create life.

Here is a picture of the inside of St. Mary's Synagogue:


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Even though the inside of the synagogue was dark, if you look closely at the picture, on either side of the cross, there are geometric tile designs, and the supporting arches of the synagogue are ornately decorated.

Since the three major cultures were distinguished from one another by their religious practices, there are appropriately many religious sites throughout the city. Here are some of a Catholic cathedral. Inside the cathedral is a mural painted by El Greco, a famous artist in Spain known for his religious art.


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Our group also explored a monastery during our visit. What surprised me the most, though, was that there was an orange tree growing in a protected pavillion inside the monastery. First, I was not expecting a live garden in the middle of the monastery courtyard. Second, I was shocked to see full, ripe oranges growing in February in central Spain, which is known for its cold winter temperatures, aridity and blustery winds.


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We also got to see the carvings that monks had made over time in the walls of the monastery. While most were tasteful and of artistic merit (usually those depicting saints), there were some others that proved that even monks had sick senses of humor.


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That's right. It's a monkey having a bowel movement on a chamber pot. Lovely.


In spite of all the religious-themed sites, the streets of Toledo were thin, cobblestone walkways going past rows and rows of gift shops and eateries. More than once, our group was surprised by cars driving through the streets, forcing us to squeeze by the moving vehicles and other pedestrians blocking the way. It's a good thing nobody tried to drive an SUV through!


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And, because it is situated in the mountains, Toledo had some amazing scenic views of the surrounding area.


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I took this last picture of Paul, a fellow AU student, because it's somewhat of a funny story. We were surveying the cliffs overlooking the river from behind a metal fence, when Paul realized there were dirt paths leading down to the edge of the cliff. So, he took his camera and JUMPED over the side of the railing, walking down the paths. As soon as he did that, Cristina, our program assistant (who is experiencing her first semester as a coordinator and chaperone), nearly had a heart attack. And, of course, did the other program participants stay still? No! They decided that they should follow Paul down to the cliff's edge. The rest of the group then started joking with Cristina, saying they were going to come back on their own free time and re-visit the cliff. Cristina just said, "Don't call me if one of you falls. I don't want to know." Luckily, there were no accidents or mishaps, though I think Paul likes tormenting Cristina by keeping her on her toes. At least no one can say our group outings are dull and boring!


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Hasta luego!

Posted by John Riley  at 10:36 PM | Permalink

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Hi John!
I've been enjoying your blogs. Looks like great fun. Have you seen the Alhambra? Seville?
I understand Morocco is on your list. Please write about that. I have always wanted to go but talk about it's being dangerous, impoverished and so forth have put many of us off. Do take photos!
Glad you are having such a good time.
Margie

Posted by: margie at February 23, 2006 07:23 AM

You’ve moved halfway across the world from one nation’s capitol to another. How is living in Madrid different from living in Washington, D.C.?

You’ve talked about the relaxed quality of Spanish every day life. Was the difference between the face-paced nature of Americans incredibly noticeable? Do you think you’ve adjusted to this way of life? Which do you prefer?

Spain has a rich and vibrant history, which includes many elements that one may not generally think of as “Spanish,” such as the Basques or the Muslim influence. What do you think is the most unique quality of Spanish culture?

Posted by: Liz Petow at March 7, 2006 10:36 PM

Dear Readers,

I have traveled to Andalucia, visiting Seville, Cordoba, and Granada. I will be blogging soon about that. Unfortunately, my camera has been acting up, so I am waiting to be able to retrieve photos from that trip.

In response to Liz´s questions, Madrid is drastically different from living in Washington, D.C. I really haven´t been able to find a city that "feels" like D.C. in Spain. Madrid and Barcelona, two of the most populous and well-known Spanish cities, can probably best be compared to New York and Los Angeles, respectively. Madrid has that "New York (Manhattan)" feel, since it is the capital and the central place of business. Washington has the feel of a college town combined with a political atmosphere.
The most obvious differences, in my mind, are that while Washington is very politicized in terms of identifying oneself as liberal, moderate or conservative (and many people are more open about their affiliation), Madrid is more covert in terms of its orientation. For instance, the press in Spain is much more politicized --and I would say, ouright biased--than 95 percent of the press or media at home. People do not talk much about politics in public, but both the political right and left are more extreme than in the U.S., ranging from facism on one side to anarchism on the other.
Habitually, Spain is much more relaxed and slow-going than the "on the go" culture we have in the United States. While I have adopted some customs and feel much more relaxed than I do when I´m in Washington, I sometimes regress. This is evident when I am walking down the street. The Spanish pace is much slower, and my friend Nicole and I have both talked about our urge to walk quickly and weave in and out of pedestrian traffic (but we restrain ourselves because that might be perceived as rude). After all, we are from the Northeast, and we would prefer to spend less time commuting!
One of the most unique things about Spanish culture is the variety of views. There are basically two Spains: the united, strongly Catholic and traditional Spain and the "new" Spain, where cultures, religions and languages that were discouraged under Franco´s regime are finally emerging. Clearly, this is a conflict of ideologies, since the Basque and Catalan separatist movements emphasize their unique culture and their desire for independence, and the recognition of the role that Muslims and Jews have played in Spain´s history. However, even when we went to Andalucia, which has strong Muslim roots, our guides seemed to gloss over the Muslim parts of history and focus more on the Reconquest and Inquisition, as if to say that many Spaniards still believe that only Catholic contributions to society were important.

Posted by: John Riley at March 8, 2006 10:15 AM

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February 12, 2006

Bienvenidos a Madrid

Hola! Que tal? Or, in other words, "Hi? How's it going?" My name is John and I am a junior at American University in Washington, D.C. majoring in journalism and Spanish language. I am a graduate of La Salle Academy from Providence, R.I. This is my first time traveling abroad.

Since I arrived in Madrid about three weeks ago, my life has been extremely hectic. But then, my life is always hectic. Upon arriving in the city, 33 other students and I were placed overnight in a hotel in the middle of Madrid. After we became accustomed to the city, we were all placed with host families.

My hosts are the Hernandez family, made up of Marichu, the mother, Marichu, the daughter, and 12-year old Rocio. My classmate Jeff and I both have our own rooms in the house. The Hernandezes have been kind and open to us, and are always willing to talk, so we get a lot of practice perfecting our Spanish. In turn, I also can help Rocio with English, since she takes language classes every day after school.

One of the most interesting things about Madrid is that the daily schedule is so different from the routine in the United States. For example, most people wake up later, go to work in the mid-morning and leave after dusk, and some younger people even go out after dinner (usually about 9-10 p.m.) and go to bars or clubs.

On the weekends, Madrid seems like a city on the go. People are constantly moving, constantly going somewhere, from the mid-afternoon until the wee hours of Saturday and Sunday morning. The average time when people begin leaving the clubs on weekends is about 6 a.m.! Imagine if that were the case in the U.S.!

And here are the four troopers who decided to tough it out and stay up for the full experience on "International Night" at a local club:

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Photo courtesy of: Jessica Pfleiderer

Another difference in the lifestyle here is that most people are laid back. The attitude of "no pasa nada," which, roughly translated, means "think nothing of it/It doesn't matter" is like an unwritten rule. If you accidentally bump into someone on the Metro, and say "I'm sorry," people will often smile and will literally say, "No pasa nada."

As part of the semester, we have planned field trips to different cities in Spain. Already, we have traveled to Toledo and Barcelona, and have visited El Retiro, a large park inside Madrid where many Spaniards pass Sunday afternoons. I will have to fill in details in my later posts, but, for now, I will leave you with a taste of what's to come:

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Hasta luego!

Posted by John Riley  at 5:09 PM | Permalink

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