« April 2006 | Main

Recommendation: a Parisien pique-nique

Two girls shop for ripe melons, sniffing for a sweet fragrance, at Marché Mouffetard, one of my favorite places and recommendations for visitors to Paris to go

You can’t do Paris without a museum, or two, or ten — it’s unthinkable. If you're visiting the City of Light for the first time, by all means, flit from the Louvre to D’Orsay; climb la Tour Eiffel and l’Arc de Triomphe; visit Notre Dame and Sacré Coeur. After that, here’s my pearl of wisdom learned from experience: you’ll have more fun and better memories of Paris, or wherever you go, if you dig deep into the culture.

My adventure in Paris was four months of uncharted exploration. I didn’t have guidebooks or tour guides. Every day that I could, I ventured out with only my camera to take pictures, and my map and métro ticket to get me back at the end of the day. I discovered the most charming and pittoresque places by taking “wrong” turns. There’s more to Paris than the puddle iron tower. There’s an incredible culture, and even during a short vacation, it’s easy to discover. Here are my tested suggestions of things to do in Paris:

Go to the outdoor markets!
They’re one of my favorite things about Paris. As a tourist, it’s possible to side-step them, but seek one out! There are close to 100 roving and street markets throughout the city, open every day except Mondays. Pick up a Pariscope at a street newsstand for a complete listing of days and times, or look here.

A few of the best roving marchés are Richard-Lenoir (Th. and Sun. 7 a.m.-3 p.m. at métro Richard-Lenoir in the 11è), Aligre (T-Sat. 8:30 a.m.-1 p.m. and 4-7:30, Sun. 8:30-1:30 p.m. near métro Ledru-Rollin in the 12è), and the one that I lived next to, Saxe/Breteuil (Th. and Sun. 7 a.m.-2 p.m., métro Ségur or Sèvres Lecourbe in the 15è). Markets are free to wander through, entertaining, and very French. Watch the venders engage with the customers; peruse primeurs (first fruits and vegetables of the season), the freshest eggs, cheese, meats, fish, and flowers, clothing, bric-a-brac and kitchenware; and be aware of little, old ladies whipping through the aisles with their rolling totes — they’re dauntless.

Go in the late morning and pick up a picnic lunch. You can find everything there — Normandy apples, Greek olives, cheese, baguettes, roasted chicken, chocolate tartes, wine — even sun hats and paring knives.

Street markets are also fun. My favorite is rue Mouffetard, the market street I did my field research project on during the semester. The produce there is expensive compared to other markets, but go for the Sunday morning ambiance alone. The music and dancing starts at 11 a.m., and lyric sheets are distributed so everyone can join in. One of my first Projo blogs was on this market street, and I came to love it more each time I went back, seeing the same faces each week and making friends. I watched a couple of tourists come over towards the music, and as they watched, big smiles spread across their faces.

Locals dance and sing along to the Mouffetard Musette behind the market every Sunday morning.

Have a picnic (pique-nique)

Enjoy a picnic (with your food from the morning's market) at one of Paris' many nice picnic spots. Pont Des Artes just in front of the Louvre is a popular place; it’s one of many Parisian bridges over the Seine that connecting the Right and Left Banks. This wooden footbridge, built in 1803, is popular among French young people as a picnic spot and place to relax with friends. In early May, my friend Chiara had a birthday celebration on the bridge and we had a picnic under the clear night sky, overlooking the Seine and a sparkling Eiffel tower. We brought blankets, wine, and cake, and sat comfortably on the bridge in the open air. There’s also the park near the Eiffel Tower, Champ de Mars (métro École Militaire on 8), and Jardin du Luxembourg (stop on RER B or walk from métro Cluny-La Sorbonne on 10). There’s also a nice garden at the métro Cluny-La Sorbonne next to the Cluny museum.

Eat nutella crêpes!

You can’t do Paris without a crêpe or two. Nutella is the best, but there are many options including sucre (sugar), citron (lemon), a selection of confitures (jams), Grand Marnier, and chocolate. Crêpe stands dot the more touristic areas of Paris, and it’s worth it to compare prices and also check to see if the crêpes are pre-made. For me, part of the fun of buying a crêpe is watching it be made — as the batter is poured onto the skillet and artfully raked into shape, then later flipped, the filling spread, and the crêpe folded before being handed over still steaming hot. I was always very skeptical of crêpe stands that had a mountain of pre-made crêpes, and when the customer ordered, it would just be filled, folded, and served, luke-warm. My favorite crêpe stand is tucked into the end of rue de la Harpe, just outside the Cluny-La Sorbonne métro (on the 10), next to McDonalds. They make delicious Nutella crêpes for 2,30 euros which is one of the better prices I found in Paris (they climb as high as 3,50 for just Nutella).

Take a coffee at a café



Cafe Panis, near Notre Dame

The Parisian café culture represents a different pace and lifestyle than what American are used to. Un café pour emporter (a coffee to go) is very rare in Paris. Part of the Parisian experience is enjoying, slowly, a cup of joe and people-watching from an outside table. Heed this warning though: check the prices before you order! I ordered and drank one cappuccino at a café at Bastille, and then looked at my bill for 7,50 euros! I learned my lesson. Café crèmes and cappuccinos usually cost around 4 euros each ($5) at tables, so a simple café (coffee) or my favorite, a noisette (hazelnut coffee) are better alternatives for about 2 euros each. For more authentic ambiance, order and drink your coffee at the bar where the prices are about half of what you would pay sitting at a table.

Most cafés have good, simple food at decent prices. At one of my favorites, Le Mouffetard (116 rue Mouffetard in the 5è, métro Place Monge), I had an excellent mozzarella and basil tartine with a fried egg. Look for the Croque Monsieur, one of Paris’ tastiest specialties, and standard café fare. It’s essentially a hot grilled-ham-and-cheese sandwich, but more filling and flavorful than the American counterpart. I always ordered mine sans jambon (without ham). Look for other versions, too, including Croque Madame, which is served with a fried egg.

Avoid tourist-trap restaurants on busy boulevards

As I traveled to London, the south of France, Italy, and Greece, this much held true: if you go a street or two behind the main thoroughfare, you will find authentic food at more reasonable prices. My best recommendation is to look for places off the busy boulevards like St. Michel and rue de Rivoli that serve mediocre food at jacked-up prices. Avoid the touristic rue de la Harpe at métro St. Michel! The pedestrian street is chock-full of souvenir shops, Greek restaurants, crêperies, and the like. It’s tempting because all the restaurateurs stand outside, doling out offers for free drinks. The street is charming for a wander-through, but everything’s over-priced and the food is low-quality.

Instead, head to the back of the Quartier Latin (in the 5è) or the Marais (in the 4è arrondissement). They're great areas to explore, with lots of cute restaurants, while still staying central in the city. I ate at a good, quiet place called Jardin du Marais (corner of rue Vieille du Temple & rue du Roi de Sicile) in February. My friend and I got there around 7:30 p.m. and we were the only diners at that “early” hour (The French don't eat dinner until 8 p.m. or much later). I opted for the fixed-price menu and ordered avocat vinaigrette et salade (green salad with avocado), Pizza Reine (with ham and mushrooms, but I asked for no ham), and mousse chocolat for around 11 euros. Also, wherever you eat, always ask for a carafe d'eau, a free pitcher of tap water, if you don't want to buy still or bubbly bottled water. While visiting Italy and Greece this month, I missed Paris' free tap water.

One of my favorite little places is close by in the Marais, the popular L’As du Fallafel (34 rue des Rosiers, between Hôtel de Ville and St. Paul métros. Follow rue des Ecouffies a couple blocks behind Rivoli). There’s seating inside, but I preferred to order a vegetarian fallafel sandwich pour emporter (to go) from the window and watch the master prepare the Middle-Eastern specialty, stuffing a pita with falafel, Turkish salad, eggplant, cabbage, hummus, and tahini. It’s a quick and cheap lunch for just 4 euros, and an easy walk along rue des Rosiers to the pretty Place des Vogues. While you're there, explore the medieval streets. The interesting Musée Carnavalet is just down the street (23, rue de Sévigné), as is the Picasso museum.

Last thing — enjoy the inexpensive, amazing bread from bakeries (boulangeries). You can get a baguette at any boulangerie for about 75 centimes ($0.95), and a demi-baguette (half) for around 40 centimes, or a flûte, or my favorite — the banettes. And, indulge in desserts from pastry shops (pâtisseries). They're amazing. I miss them.

Posted by at 6:08 PM

Advice for the Spanish Traveler

If you are ever going to travel to Madrid, you will want to see the usual sites that guidebooks mention: the Prado, the painting "Guernica" at the Reina Sofia, the Thyssen-Bornemisza art museum, and other monuments in the center of the city.

But here are some other places you might be interested in (Be warned, Madrid is a walking city. You can take the Metro to places, but then you will have to exit the station and walk at least a half-mile to your destination.):

1) Palacio Real (Metro stop: Opera, Line "R" or Plaza de Espana, Line 10). The former Royal Palace is one of Madrid's major sites, and is very close to the site of the modern-day Senate. There are citywide bus tours offered by different companies (you will have to register for them) that start from the Palacio Real. There is also a garden with statues of famous Spanish rulers situated around the perimeter, so even if you do not go on the bus tour, you can appreciate a stroll around the neatly trimmed greenery.

2) Parque del Buen Retiro (Metro stop: Retiro, Line 2). This large park, located in the middle of Madrid, attracts thousands of people every day. It's a perfect place just to relax and take in scenery. There are running trails for people who want to get in a morning workout, monuments as well as statues of historical or artistic importance for history buffs and public gardens for nature lovers. Visitors can rent boats and take them out on a lake in the center of the park. Artisans and "street" artists line the walkways of Retiro, selling their creations. One of the artists I saw did "splash art" with spraypaint, and, only using the paint and different cut-out shapes of paper, managed to create paintings that look like they were done with oil paint on a canvas. These "starving" artists certainly have talent, and the average cost of a painting was 10 euros. Even if you don't buy anything, it's still fascinating to watch the process of how a painting is made.

3) The Madrid Zoo (Metro Stop: Batan, Line 10). Located in the Casa de Campo, this zoo (which I blogged about earlier) has almost every type of animal imaginable. It also has an aquarium with live dolphin and sea lion shows and attractions for the kids. For those Rhode Islanders reading this blog, I would say it is like a mix between Sea World and Roger Williams Park Zoo. Definitely something to do on a "low-key" day.

4) Plaza Mayor (Metro stop: Sol, Line 3). What happens in Plaza Mayor varies from day to day. From having bull fights in a specially-constructed ring (usually imported from Navarra or the north of Spain, as outside of that region, bullfighting is not popular in Spain) to horse shows to fashion shows or displays of artwork, there is usually some new project being constructed for some show at Plaza Mayor. However, even on days when the square is bare, it's a beautiful piece of architecture and the perfect place for an afternoon stroll.

For food, Madrid has any number of restaurants. Although it's a bit pricey, La Paella Real, next to El Palacio Real, is a wonderful restaurant that's well worth the cost. Plus, the traveler gets to sample the customary Spanish dish: paella, or rice with vegetables and your choice of meat. Be warned--to show the freshness of the food, Spanish restaurants serve seafood like shrimp with the heads still attached! You'll just have to shell the shrimp yourself.

VIPS, which is like a mini-CVS, is the store where you can buy almost everything. It also has a VIPS restaurant, which serves burgers, chicken and more "American"-style food. The VIPS on Calle Velazquez (Metro: Avenida de America), near my school, also had two additional restaurants, including an Italian eatery, in the basement. The food is reasonably priced at all VIPS establishments.

And if you don't feel like that, you can always avail yourself of one of the many tapas bars around Madrid. Usually set up like small taverns, these bars serve alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages and tapas, or reasonably-priced appetizers ranging from Spanish omelette (potatoes and eggs) to jamon serrano (pieces of cured ham). Most of the places will have a sign outside advertising "tapas."

For a good dessert or snack, go to the Chocolateria San Gines, located in the alley off of Calle Arenal next to the Church of San Gines, where you can order churros, or long strips of fried bread, with chocolate. The chocolate comes in cups like hot chocolate, but has the consistency of a thick pudding.

Try them--they're delicious! And you can also justify indulging yourself, because you'll burn the calories by just walking from place to place through Madrid.

For souvenirs, there are many stores around Sol with good-quality, cheap goods. You can also buy souvenirs at pricier stores in the areas of Serrano and Colon, if you want. Some people choose to buy items off of street vendors, and you can--but be aware that not all vendors are the same, and some will try to cheat you, especially if you stand out as a tourist.

For nightlife, the bars and clubs tend to be concentrated in Sol or along Gran Via, a major artery in Madrid. The neighborhoods of Alonso Martinez and Chueca also have great club life and bars ranging from "hole-in-the-wall" places to posh Manhattan-style lounges. Kapital, located in Atocha, is a popular seven-story club with a different style of music on each floor. It can be pricey, but is a guaranteed night of fun if you do go. On Sunday, while you recover from staying out late, you can sleep in, or, if you're an early bird, you can head over to El Rastro, a huge flea market where almost everything from clothes to snack food is on sale. The streets around La Latina and the Plaza de Cascorro, where the vendors set up their stalls, are packed every week.

If you do go to Madrid, don't stress about trying to see and do everything. The attitude of the average Spaniard is much more relaxed than that of most Americans. If you don't see something or get somewhere, there is plenty to do to occupy your time, and you can always re-attempt your endeavor at a later time. Above all, enjoy! As they say in Spain, "no pasa nada."

Posted by at 5:44 PM

Little Places in Zaragoza

Are you thinking about traveling to Spain and, more specifically, to Zaragoza? I hope you are because if you do you will find a wonderful country (and city) that you will absolutely love! Anyway, as I spend my last days here I wanted to give you a heads-up on some small places that you should definitely go give a look if you are ever in Zaragoza.

1. Mezcalito: A small Mexican cafe/restaurant located very close to the center of town. The Mexican food, while nothing compared to the United States, is one of the better Mexican places you will find in Zaragoza. If you are in the Plaza de Aragon, go down Calle Canfranc, take a right onto Calle Ponzano and then turn right at the first street, it will be right there on the right.

2. Tabernillas: Another very nice cafe/restaurant. If you go there for lunch (between 1-3 in the afternoon normally) you will find an elegant restaurant to eat, but the real treat is to go there to Tomar un Cafe (drink a coffee). It is located on Calle Ponzano (see above). Also the waiters are very accustomed to serving Americans so I suspect that speaking English would not be a problem.

3. Cine Renoir: This movie theater is one of the smaller ones in Zaragoza, but also one of the most fascinating. They usually play some of the smaller, non-blockbuster movies that are released. On top of that they are known for playing the movies in their original version so there may even be a movie playing in English (though I have not seen one during my year here). You can reach the theater by walking up Gran Via towards the Park and the Soccer Stadium. The movie theater is on the right, hidden around the corner a bit, right before the soccer stadium (and across the street from the park). I highly recommend it.

4. FNAC: Located on Calle Coso, it is a wonderful store dedicated to books music and many other things of that nature. I would compare it to Borders or Barnes and Noble. The best thing about it though is that, while they do have books in Spanish, they also have a selection of books in English for your reading pleasure. It is not really a small store, but yet it is one that is definitely worth a look if you are bored and are looking for something to do.

5. Calle San Miguel: Located near the center of Zaragoza (off Independencia), this street is the center of a neighborhood full of typical Spanish restaurants. If you are really interested in having some ham or some Spanish tortilla, just go looking for any restaurant in this neighborhood. I highly recommend it.

Hope you all enjoyed what I have written over the semester. It has been fun to be able to share some highlights of my year over here in Zaragoza, Spain, and I'll be doing one more entry when I get back to Providence reflecting on my year as a whole. Until then.

Posted by at 12:26 PM

Beat the shock!

It’s over. My time in Cuenca, Ecuador has finished. Now I’m here in Rhode Island, and I feel what people warned me about: culture shock.

I have been here for a week now, and every morning I still wake up confused from my night’s dream in Spanish. I wake up and think I am going to hear my host mom open my door saying “ Jennnnnaaa, desayunoooo (Jenna, breakfast).” Instead I find myself waking up to no one, and a room filled with all my unpacked things. I have no interest in unpacking, I think once I am unpacked and organized I will know that I am definitely not returning. Right now, I have left one bag packed, just in case...

Unfortunately it’s impossible to return until I make some money and finish my schooling, so I will have to get used to this culture shock feeling. I need to stop saying “permiso” when walking through a crowd, or in a restaurant, “ tiene salsa de tomate (do you have any ketchup?),” or carrying a role of toilet paper around in my purse (bathrooms never had toilet paper) or saying “gracias (thank you)” and “buenas dias/buenas tardes or buenas noches (good morning, good afternoon and good evening).”

I need especially to stop speaking Spanish when I am drunk. I went to visit my college and after a couple drinks at the bar, I was on the hunt for anyone that looked even slightly Latino that I could speak with. When I went to the bathroom there was a woman who looked to be of Latino descent cleaning the restroom, and upon seeing her I proceeded to give her the traditional kiss greeting and start talking to her in Spanish. Bad idea. She definitely did not speak Spanish, and was in fact rather offended. This did not stop me though. I continued my hunt and I found a Portugese boy and started going off in excitement thinking he could understand me, then found out Portugese and Spanish really are not that similar. So I then decided it was a great idea to speak Spanish to my Croatian boyfriend, so we continued the rest of the night speaking two very distinct languages and not understanding each other at all, but somehow I felt a lot better, even though I knew he couldn’t understand me.

I know I will continue to have a lot of adjustment problems, especially with the prices of food and the rules and regulations here in the U.S., but I am happy to be home. Things in Ecuador and in the U.S. are certainly different, especially for me and the rest of abroad students. Abroad is not reality, we have to remember this. Studying abroad is the dream life, most of us did not work, we just traveled, learned, and enjoyed life in another culture. I know the hardest part for me is coming back to obligations; I have to train for soccer, I have bills to pay, gas to pay for, and actually study when school begins.

Our lives abroad were without obligations and worries, and now we are here with them, which rightfully make us resent the U.S. Remember, this is our home county until we become citizens of another, so love and respect the things that we take for granted here. Also, it helps me to think that working and getting through school makes me one step closer to returning to South America. All those planning on returning to your host country, just work hard for now, then play time comes later. All those returning for another semester or to live, you are lucky, just don’t forget us!:)

Some quick words of advice for the next group of bloggers. Listen to Sheila, write often but small. I did the complete opposite and hardly ever wrote. Maybe keep a journal outside of the blogs where you can write down activities and emotions when they happen. I kept a journal and wrote everyday in the beginning, but then towards the end I hardly ever wrote. Try to keep it up, you will thank yourselves later. Also, remember that people really want to feel and be able to envision where you are and what your life is like, so try to think of the small details and daily events that make your country so unique.

Good luck to all those planning on studying abroad, it really is the experience of a lifetime and WELCOME HOME to all those who have returned!

Posted by at 10:49 AM

St. A's in a Nutshell

I head home to America tomorrow morning, and I really can't wait. I've grown fond of St. Andrews, and I'll miss it, but it just can't compare to Rhode Island. Before I leave, though, I have some recommendations for the visitors that are flowing into the "Home of Golf."

For restaurants, I recommend the Grill House (2 course menu for 10.95 from 5-7) or either of the Indian/Bangladeshi restaurants. For lunch, if you're looking for something light, I would recommend any of the coffee shops, really. One of my favorites is the Coffee Shop and Tea Room on Greyfriar's Garden.

Make sure while you're here you hit both of the beaches: East and West Sands. Both have spectacular views of the different parts of town, and are very different experiences. West Sands is right near the Old Course, and East Sands is up near the harbor and the pier. However, I wouldn't recommend them at night unless it's summer (because during the summer there really isn't a night - the sun sets at 10 now and rises about 4:30). Also head down Castle Sands near the Castle itself, especially if it's nighttime and you want to build a bonfire.

Recently my running partner Ashley and I discovered a path that runs along a stream, and goes by a few parks and playgrounds, and behind houses with amazing gardens if you enjoy that sort of thing. It's called Lade Braes Walk and starts on South Street and heads for miles parallel to Hepburn Gardens. It's a great way to see the real St. Andrews, with football games and owners walking their dogs and children on the swings. If you're not into touristy things, and are more of a nature person, I really recommend it.

If you're more adventurous, I recommend the Fife Coastal Path to Crail. Ashley and I hiked this last week instead of studying (or revising, as it's called). It's 15 miles from St. Andrews to Crail, and some parts can be a little rough, so bring real walking shoes and some sunscreen, and you'll get some terrific views of the coastline:

maybe some golf courses:

and even a creepy house in the woods:

And if you're lucky, you might see a naked man sunbathing. Sadly enough I don't have a picture of this. The picture in my mind is quite enough.
If you do this hike, you can take a bus back from Crail, or you can take the whole day (and I mean whole day) and hike there and back. We took the whole day and were a bit delirious at the end.

Churches are abound in St. Andrews, and unlike a lot of churches in Europe, you don't have to pay to see them (I probably should mention that donations are accepted). Holy Trinity on South Street is incredibly beautiful inside, and it's open to all before noon on weekdays. St. Salvator's Chapel, the University Chapel, is open from 9-5 on weekdays normally, and is an incredible sight as well.

St. Andrews is a beautiful town, full of people on the sunny days and full of history every day. There is so much to be appreciated, I just hope I appreciate it by now.

Posted by at 8:31 AM

A Day at the Zoo

Sorry about the lapse in blogging, but the last few weeks have been so busy that I literally have not had time to think. First, my parents visited for Easter. Then, our group traveled to Northern Spain and Portgual. Afterwards, I spent a weekend in Dublin, Ireland and came back just in time for exam week!

When my parents came to visit, I wanted to show them around the city, so I took them to art museums and we went on a bus tour of the city. But one day, we wanted to do something new and unusual. So, we went to the Madrid Zoo and Aquarium at Batan, in the middle of the Casa de Campo.

The zoo has animals from every continent, and each continent has its own designated area of the park. The zoo reminded me of Roger Williams Park Zoo in Providence, but had some animals that you don't usually find in Rhode Island.

However, our relaxing day soon became a bit stressful, as both my father and I tried to get a picture of the elusive red panda, or firefox. Red pandas like to climb trees and hide in the branches, and despite their bright red fur, they are good at camoflauging themselves. Every time we walked past the section designated for red pandas, one would be in the tree, hiding and with its back to us. All of our attempts to capture the animal on film were thwarted. After about 12 failed shots from every angle imaginable, I was ready to jump the fence and go after the red panda, but patience eventually paid off and I got the shot I wanted.

Got ya (finally)!

Here are some of the other animals we saw:

This is a meerkat, the animal that served as the basis for the character Timon in "The Lion King." In real life, meerkats move really fast and like to burrow through the dirt. Think of them as the hyper and overactive children of the savannah.

This picture didn't come out so well, because the koalas were behind glass. They may look cute, but there's a reason they're behind glass--koalas have sharp claws and short tempers. They can be some of the fiercest animals in the world!

This is a tapir.

A wallaby, similar to but not exactly like, a kangaroo.

A kudu. This one has a target-shaped mark around its behind, which is kind of ironic considering it probably attracts the attention of hunters even more, instead of camoflauging the kudu.

This is a nilgo.

To summarize, the zoo at Casa de Campo is certainly one of those "family fun" places to visit in Madrid. Although it can be a bit difficult to find, turn left once you exit the Metro station and keep walking. You will start seeing signs that will direct you to the zoo's entrance. Disfrutate! (Enjoy!)

Posted by at 3:14 PM

Golf

My semester is winding down...16 days left until I'm back to Rhode Island! But while all of us students are taking exams and getting ready to go home, golfers around the world are getting ready to start their season.

St. Andrews is a bit like Mecca for golfers. Here is where it all started, less than a mile from my hall at the Old Course. Everyone who is anyone has played here. Tiger Woods won the Open last August, but more famous (shocking, right? More famous than Tiger?) players have included Mary Queen of Scots, King James IV (only after the ban on golf was lifted), Tom Morris and his son Tommy, and more recently, Prince William (a graduate of St. Andrews himself). Just about everything along the northern part of town is devoted to golf, from the street names:

The Links at Golf Place

to the shops:

The brand-new Old Course Shop

along with numerous hotels and bars. Incredibly exclusive golf clubs are abound, including the Royal and Ancient Golf Club.

The golf courses themselves are beautiful, and most of them overlook the ocean:

The Old Course

The golf clubs themselves are constantly looking out for the quality of the course. The R&A even has their own recommendations and guidelines for what makes a good course. I think there are six courses within St. Andrews, and Course No. 7 is on its way.

On a more personal, opinionated note, Course No. 7 will be the most beautiful course probably in the world, although I have no basis for this other than that I run by the construction site every day. Using the link above you can see from the pictures that the course sits atop a cliff on the North Sea, and this time of year when the flowers are out and the ocean is an incredible blue there is no sight more amazing. As long, I'm sure, as you don't hit your ball into the sea.

(For more info on golf in St. Andrews the St. Andrews Links Trust is a great resource for history and tourism.)

Posted by at 5:39 AM

Upholding artistic tradition in Athens

In a small shop tucked away in an Athenian alleyway, a Greek Renaissance man smokes his cigarette while crafting a pair of leather sandals for an American tourist.

Pantelis Melissinos – “artist, playwright, composer, set and costume designer”– operates Melissinos Art: The Poet Sandalmaker shop where the Beatles, Jackie Onassis, Gary Cooper and Sophia Loren have flocked to for the inexpensive (21 euros, $26), comfortable and stylish leather sandals.

Pantelis took over the shop when his poetic father, Starvos Melissinos, retired in 2004. The shop, near the Monastiraki market area, was started in 1920 by Pantelis’ grandfather Georgios Melissinos.

There are 28 different sandal styles to choose from and if the desired pair isn’t in your size, Pantelis will make it on the spot. My friends and I watched him create a pair of “Jackie O” sandals for one of us.

When we were first trying on sandals, he came from behind the counter to make sure they fit correctly. Pantelis said that Americans often buy sandals too big.

"You don’t want it to look like you are wearing a skateboard,” he said.

Pantelis also said that many European females wear shoes too small because they think their feet will look more delicate.

We responded to his curiosity about Americans by informing him that when we were growing up, our mothers always made us buy shoes that were too big. That way, our parents didn’t frequently need to buy us a new pair when our feet grew. As a result, we became accustomed to wearing shoes slightly too large.

Framed newspaper-clippings from previous decades commemorating the shop hung on the wall with Pantelis’ artwork. Pantelis graduated from Parsons School of Design in New York with a bachelor’s degree in illustration and a master’s in painting.

As we left the shop, Pantelis proudly handed us brochures about his musical comedy, “Bacchus,” which was staged in Greece from 2001 through 2002. He said that the play is written in the ancient Greek style of Aristophanes.

Whether it’s writing plays or making sandals, Pantelis knows how to keep Greek tradition alive.

Above: Pantelis making a pair of the "Jackie O" sandals.

Posted by at 5:26 AM