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Sardegna

I have recently returned from Golfo Aranci in Sardegna (written "Sardinia" in English). After a very relaxing vacation, I am slowly getting back into the groove of Roman life. For now, I will share some snapshots taken during my trip:

Golfo Aranci

Carlo, a Golfo Aranci local, out for a ride in his boat.

Out catching lunch.

Just an ordinary afternoon.

Beach goers.

Posted by Kelsea at 10:10 AM | Comments (1)

Ferragosto

To most Americans, August 15th is just another hot summer day. To the Italians, it's a hot summer day off of work and on the beach, lakeside or with pleanty of food and family.

The date has quite a history. Google search "Ferragosto" and a number of explanations come up ranging from Roman Emperor Augustus dedicating the entire month to festivals and celebrations, to the Catholic belief in the day that the Virgin Mary rose into Heaven. As for modern times, it's the day (or number of weeks) that most everyone gets off of work and takes a vacation. Many Romans go to the nearby beaches or lakes, while others prefer to stay in (avoiding the traffic) and eat a multi-course lunch with the family.

Kelsea is on vacation.

Posted by Kelsea at 1:27 PM | Comments (0)

Dinner and Deception

A friend of mine recently sent me this link to an articles from the New York Times.

It's true: Tourists pay more than the locals. I like to spend the occasional afternoon at one particular bar in Campo de' Fiori. In the past, they charged me €4 for a lemon soda. Now that I'm recognized and friendly with the staff, a glass of their best red wine and an iced cappuccino costs €4 ...quite the difference!

Dealing with Romans is like attempting to belong to an exclusive club. Those who speak the dialect flawlessly are immediately accepted. Everyone else has to put in his time. Being a foreigner living here, I have discovered that the best way to avoid being cheated out of a good meal or a good price is to either go to the restaurant or bar with someone who knows the owner, or get taken advantage of enough times at the same place that they eventually recognize you and start to treat you better. It's all about being a part of the family.

I was waitressing in a restaurant that served different quality to different nationalities. At the beginning of the night, the head chef would tell me, "The fish of the day is the same fish as yesterday. If an Italian asks you, we don't have it. If a foreigner asks you, let's get rid of it."

When my 100% Roman boyfriend and I go out to eat I let him do all of the ordering. He gets very insulted if the waiter speaks to us in English.

What's my advice to the average tourist looking for a real good meal in Rome? Stay out of the center. Get away from the tourist menus and English-speaking staff. It's hard to find a bad restaurant in Italy if you're in the small towns or outskirts...and a foreigner will take them by surprise as opposed to convincing them to dilute to pasta sauce.

Side note: The article mentions Hosteria del Moro. This happens to be a favorite of mine (and the head waiter is a personal friend) and I would highly recommend it to anyone passing through Trastevere.

Posted by Kelsea at 5:27 AM | Comments (1)

Summer Day-Tripping

During the summertime, Rome empties out from Friday afternoon to Sunday evening. Traffic going away from the city is unbearable. Tourists take over the historical center, queuing at the gates to the Vatican City as well as the geleteria. In the outskirts, shops and restaurants close down and the locals have no choice but to take advantage of the good weather.

There are a number of options for lakes and beaches located relatively close to Rome. The easiest to get to are the beaches of Ostia. Just a short train-ride away from the Roma Ostiense Station, these beaches are also the site of many summertime beach-parties hosted by Rome’s top clubs. As for swimming, it is well known that Ostia is not one of the cleanest beaches… Fortunately, the beaches of Fregene and Nettuno can also be reached by train from the Roma Termini Station.

Sperlonga

For those willing to venture a litter farther, Sperlonga is my personal favorite spot. A train from Termini will drop you off near a bus-stop that takes you right to the water. Running parallel to the shoreline is a strip lined with shops and restaurants – but I suggest hiking up the hill to the village built into the hill and overlooking the sea. In Sperlonga, the water is always crystal clear.

For freshwater fans, there are a number of lakes nearby Rome as well. Bracciano can be reached by train from Roma Ostiense and Castel Gandolfo by car

Posted by Kelsea at 9:31 AM | Comments (0)

A walk in the park

Hot and humid. Romans are fleeing the city to the beaches or hiding inside with the air conditioner turned on high. The streets are emptier than usual, and the main topic of conversation among the few strangers who pass by on the sidewalk is the heat.

I personally have taken to spending my days inside with a tall glass of iced tea and the AC remote in hand. Once in a while, I’ll walk out onto my balcony to check the temperature, but the blazing sun usually scares me back inside. In the event that there is a light breeze, cabin fever kicks in and I have the urge to get out for some air. But in a muggy city, where do I go?

Villa Pamphili

Parks and gardens: The small havens of tranquillity amongst the chaos of a big city. They offer plenty of shade, a variety of Mediterranean vegetation, and stone fountains (perfect for dipping in your tired feet)! My favorite parks include Villa Pamphili (above), Villa Borghese, and Villa Sciarra.

Fun with the statues at Villa Sciarra

My new discovery is the botanical garden in Trastevere (located at Largo Cristina di Svezia). Run by Rome’s largest university, La Sapienza, there are over 3,500 species of plants. It’s the perfect place for a walk in the shade of the trees among bamboo, flowers, a Japanese garden, and a “scent-and-touch” garden specifically established for the blind.

Posted by Kelsea at 6:32 AM | Comments (0)