« Istanbul: The mundane markets | Main | Politeness won't get you pizza »

November 7, 2005

Istanbul: The sacred sites

Photos by Gianluca Bellizzi
Aya Sofya (Hagia Sophia)

My boyfriend Gianluca and I arrived in Istanbul on a Sunday evening. Despite the bone-chilling November weather and late hour, we were too excited to stay in our hotel so decided to explore our temporary neighborhood, the Bazaar District. Walking down the cobblestoned side-streets, my boyfriend was distracted by the multiple kebab stands, cheap electronics prices, and copious number of barber shops. I, on the other hand, was a bit distracted by everyone staring at me. I quickly realized that I was the only female in sight.

Inside the Blue Mosque

Istanbul is a city where traditional and modern culture merge, making it a perfect place for sightseeing and nightlife. It becomes quickly obvious, however, that the city's districts have their individual characteristics. While in Sultanahmet and Beyoglu miniskirts and Puma sneakers are the norm, the far eastern and far western areas almost require that women wear scarves around their heads. In all neighborhoods it's hard not to notice that religion is ever-present as the muslims make their five trips a day to the mosques -- the men washing their feet and faces beforehand and all leaving their shoes at the door.

Basilica Cistern

Anyone visiting the city for the first time should see the popular attractions first listed in the guidebooks. The Blue Mosque is breathtaking, as well as the nearby Aya Sofya which was first a Christian church, then converted to a mosque. The Basilica Cistern is mystifying -- an underground structure of columns (two of which are supported by blocks carved as Medusa's head!) all in about two feet of water inhabited by carp. If you can make your way to the Western District, the mosaics of the Kariye Muzesi (there's one below) are wonderful -- but be sure to bring your own guide to enhance the experience. The museum offers no explanation of the scenes depicted on the walls and ceilings.

(Continued in the next post, Istanbul: The mundane markets)