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March 2009
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Today our group joined up with tour operators Desert and Sea for a two-hour trek across the rocky ridge of the Baja, to the little fishing village of Puerto Lopez Mateos for a couple of hours of Gray whale watching in Magdalena Bay. Once at Puerto Lopez Mateos, we boarded open-air longboats (pangas) and headed into the lagoon in search of whales. We were out about five minutes in Magdalena Bay when we spotted the plume of a whale's exhale. Our boatman (panguero) steered us directly to the spot and within minutes, we'd seen a mother and calf lifting and arcing along the surface. For the next hour and a half we watched the mothers and calves, many times they surfaced directly in front or beside our little boat, rising up to look us in the eyes, curious about the thing floating above it. One of the most beautiful sights of all was amother and calf lifting side-by-side, blowing a jet of water, then arcing back into the water like a synchronized swim duet.
The Sea of Cortez is dotted with islands from Los Cabos to Loreto. The islands form one of Mexico's largest national parks. We took a skiff right from the Inn at Loredo's shore, past the town of Loreto and the big Holland America cruise ship in port there, and around Isla Coronado. It's not uncommon to see several species of dolphin on the crossing and even the blue whales that frequent the Sea of Cortez. We didn't see any dolphins, but we saw dozens of sea lions sunning on the rocks and frolicking in the water. The islands in the Sea of Cortez are renown to scuba divers and snorkeling enthusiasts for the ample and diverse sea life below the surface. The water was so clear, leaning over the boat we could see hundreds of colorful fish. Putting ashore on a white sandy beach, we did some beachcombing. As a protected eco-system, visitors are forbidden to take away shells or specimens from the Bahia de Loreto islands. I snapped about a hundred pictures that I'll put up in a gallery somewhere for online viewing when I get home. Looking out across the clear, white beach and turquoise waters it was hard to believe I was not in the Caribbean, but only an hour's flight from Los Angeles. Dinner that evening found us at the Oasis Hotel in the old town of Loreto. Set right on the beach, the hotel has been a favorite spot for divers and sportfishermen who have come to Loreto for years. With clams so plentiful in the bay, a traditional clambake right on the beach set the mood for a great evening under the stars. We arrived in Loreto, Baja California Sur just after 2 p.m. and hopped on a van to the Inn at Loreto Bay. I am stunned at the beauty of this place. Desert lovers will appreciate the stark majesty of the saguaro cactus and serene stillness. Mountain lovers will find plenty of peaks to climb. Joining the desert and the mountains in this sanguine paradise is the Sea of Cortez. The Inn at Loreto Bay is about 20 minutes from the airport at Loreto and about a half-hour from town. Staff met us in the lobby with margaritas that could strip the spines from an iguana. Spread across the arc of Loreto Bay, each room at the Inn has a view of the bay. Rooms are average in size, with typical amenities. Most impressive to me is the Inn's dedication to sustainability. This is the first resort I've ever visited that had a recycle bin in the room. Instead of the little plastic shampoos and lotions in the bath, the Inn has large, attractive pump-style options of its salon brands. Dinner was served on a patio facing the beach, the table lovely with white linens and crystal stemware. Cerviche made from sea bass with chunks of avocado and chopped cilantro and white fish served with risotto. The wind picked up off the Sea of Cortez and even the men in our group got chilled. We moved inside the Inn's dining room for dessert of creme brulee, coffee and a snifter of damiana, an liqueur made here in Loreto from herbs found Baja. I'm heading down to Baja California Sur today for a five day adventure on the Sea of Cortez and the lovely old town of Loreto in Baja California Sur. Rather funny that Alaska Airlines is flying me down to Loreto, a direct flight from LAX. Loreto sits on the eastern edge of the Baja peninsula, about half-way in between the US border and Los Cabos. Loreto is seeing plenty of development these days, with accommodation choices from the Inn at Lareto to the new JW Marriott. I'll be looking for green practices and cultural sustainability in these resorts. Jacques Costeau once called the Sea of Cortez "the ocean's aquarium" because of its diverse marine life. My itinerary includes whale and shark watching--the whale shark is quite populous in the Sea of Cortez. I'll be snorkeling out near Isla Coronado, where I'm told encounters with the gentle whale shark are not uncommon. That's all for now. Time to load up the big red suitcase and hit the road to LAX. Or how social media helped pick my dinner choice. Earlier today one of my twitterpals, Kristy Kiernan, posted this on her page: "Off to try a new restaurant, sauteed mussels with chorizo, tomatoes, garlic, white wine, and cilantro pesto anyone?" Oh yeah, did that sound good. Dinner time came here on the West Coast a few hours later and off we went to Circa 59, one of the poshest new dining spots in Palm Springs. The restaurant is tucked inside the legendary Riviera Hotel and Spa where BassMan and I are taking a post-holidays decompression getaway. With my tongue teased by Kristy's tweets, I was craving something unusual when we walked in. A quick perusal of the menu showed several imaginative concoctions and with seafood, beef, chicken and vegetables. When I saw the Snapper with Shrimp and Chorizo Ragout, I knew I needed to try this. BassMan and I began with lobster bisque, smooth and sweetened with brandy, then moved on to the Asian pear and arugula salad tossed with a Dijon champagne vinaigrette and topped with gorgonzola cheese and candied walnuts. BassMan ordered Kobe steak, grilled to medium with a brandy peppercorn sauce, and truffle fries on the side. I'm not a big beef eater, but if I were, this is the kind of steak I would crave. Tender, juicy and expertly grilled perfectly as ordered, BassMan savored every single bite. The truffle fries were coated with a truffle crust that gave them a savory crunch. Neither one of us had room for coffee or dessert. We came straight back to our room so that I could post this while the taste was still fresh in my mouth. And now I'll twitter back to Kristy how her mouth watering tweets influenced tonight's dinner. Just when the fog settles over SoCali, American Airlines puts Mexico fares on sale. If you buy your ticket today, you can get to Mexico for a fraction of the regular fare. Leaving from LAX, you can buy a round-trip ticket to Los Cabos for the base rate of $184. Expect to add about $100 in taxes and fees, but even then, a roundtrip to Los Cabos from LA for $284 is a deal. You'll find other Mexico cities on sale from different US gateways. Tickets must be purchased TODAY, for outbound travel by February 26 and return by March 2. Purcase your tickets here. If you miss today's purchase deadline, you've still got great discount options. Los Cabos Visitors and Convention Bureau is running "Fly Me to the Sun," a program thoughout 2009 that offers the equivalent of one roundtrip airfare when you stay at participating hotels in Los Cabos. Check out this site for details on your $400 hotel credit through this program. I've been wanting an extended whale watching expedition to the birthing/mating lagoons on the Baja coast north of Cabo. Sounds like a great opportunity for to visit Cabo and then go play with the Pacific gray whales in Laguna San Ignacio before they leave in March for their 3,000 mile migration back to Alaska. The year 2008 took flight with as much promise as any other, but economic stress rubbed the gossamer glow off its wings during its final descent. What's your vision for 2009? Travel forecasters are optimistic that with the drop in oil prices, airline fuel surcharges will fall and road trippers will take to the highways again. Travel is something our culture craves and is not likely to give up. Americans love to go places, even if it's a staycation, where they stay in their own home while visiting the cultural and entertainment venues of their community, or taking advantage of the stronger dollar in Europe. I have a calendar of trips planned for 2009, beginning next week with a stay at the newly renovated Riviera Hotel and Spa in Palm Springs; followed by a couple of days at Encore, Wynn Las Vegas' exclusive new hotel, and the brand new Pelican Hill Resort at Newport Coast. I'm hoping to do some skiing at the Lake Tahoe resorts and also get to know Reno. What are your travel plans for 2009? The Lake Tahoe resorts are celebrating the holidays early after a winter storm rolled in Saturday leaving storm totals of nearly two feet of new snow at the ski resorts' higher elevations.The National Weather Service is predicting even more snow for the region throughout the week. "All it takes is one good storm for a white Christmas," said Andy Chapman, tourism director of the North Lake Tahoe Resort Association. "And we got it and then some. From our ski slopes to beaches, everywhere you look is covered in new snow." The lifts are up and running at North Lake Tahoe ski resorts. Boreal Mountain Resort and Northstar-at-Tahoe are open top to bottom. Also open are Mt. Rose-Ski Tahoe and Sugar Bowl. Squaw Valley USA is open with 22 inches of fresh snow. Tahoe Cross Country Ski Area in Tahoe City and Tahoe Donner Cross Country will open tomorrow, December 16. Tahoe Donner Downhill and Diamond Peak in Incline Village will open Thursday, December 18. Alpine Meadows plans to re-open Friday, December 19.
Tim goes to the farmer's market every Saturday to buy fresh, local produce and to see what the area farmers are producing. We followed Tim around as he bought bunches of fresh fennel still on the stems, three colors of beets with the leafy tops, sweet potatoes, asian persimmons, swiss chard, autumn royal grapes, portobello mushrooms and bags of other ordinary stuff. I bought a bunch of purple carrots, a bundle of beets and some delicious greek olives. When Chef Tim was finished shopping, he headed back to the Side Car Restaurant to cook lunch for us with all of the ingredients he'd purchased. We strolled down Main St. and browsed through many of the stores and boutiques that make Ventura's downtown so charming. Just after noon we headed to the Side Car for lunch. The Side Car isn't ordinarily open for lunch, but Chef Tim invited us for a special "Farm to Table" lunch to show us what can be done with the local grown ingredients he'd purchased just that day. The Side Car restaurant sits on the road that had once been Highway 1 before the 101 cut through the city. Just as the name implies, the Side Car is a an old train car, built in 1910 and through the 30 years of its rail service was used as a dining car and the animal car for a circus. It was retired in 1933 and brought to its present setting here in Ventura. It began its Ventura run as a reknown restaurant called The Side Car and was a favorite stop for celebrities driving Highway 1 between L.A. and San Francisco. In later years it declined, was sold and saw a dozen other businesses claim its distinctive place. Chef Tim met us at the Side Car, showed us around the grand dining room, then seated us for our Farm Lunch. He began bringing out dish after dish served family style for each of us to serve ourselves. The imagination this man has for food and combinations is as fresh as the Side Car is vintage. He brought out sweet potato soup made with coconut milk; salads made with fuji apples and shaved fennel (not just dusted with the lacy green tops); persimmon and grape salad with goat's cheese crumbles, portobello mushrooms polkadotted with goat's cheese, and roasted beets. You can be sure I'll be back to the Side Car next time I'm here in Ventura. See more Ventura photos in my Facebook album here.
We're staying at the Marriott, right off the 101 and only a couple of blocks from the beach or the harbor. Just down the road is the Crowne Plaza situated right on the beach. If I were here for a beach excursion, I'd rather be there, but the Marriott is convenient and comfortable and affordable. We began our evening out at Weaver Wines, a wine bar and wine gift shop in the lovely old downtown area. Weaver Wines is one of those amazing places with small-town ambience, but big city style. You can sit and sip a good glass of wine, enjoy one of the daily wine flights, or tee-total over a glass of mineral water. The wine and gift shop carries distinctive gifts all year around. This time of year the store is bedecked with all-things holiday. I never knew Santa was so into wine, but he's all over the place here. Now I wonder if the reason why I never got what I wanted for Christmas as a child was because I left out milk and cookies instead of wine and cheese. After a five-wine flight including three whites and two reds, we walked around the block to the Watermark restaurant, one of Ventura's newest and hippest places to dine and drink. Watermark is located in a historic building built in the early 1900s for the electric company. Through the years it's been a bank, a jewelry store, an antique store and several other blurred businesses. Looks to me like Watermark is here to say. Owners Mark and Kathy Hartley and Jim Rice spent several years restoring the old building to its early grandeur, including the murals of Ventura valley life painted in the 1920s. The ceiling of the ground floor is spectacular, with carved and handpainted wooden beams. The restaurant is on the ground floor and serves California cuisine with high style. Upstairs you'll find W2O a hip and trendy bar reflecting the beachside community. The ceiling of W2O retracts to allow sunshine and fresh air to circulate. Across the building tops of the city you can see the ocean sparkling in the distance. Tomorrow we're going downtown to the Saturday farmer's market, do some browsing through some of the boutiques, lunch, chocolate tasting at Trufflehounds, more wine tasting and then dinner at Brooks restaurant. See more Ventura photos in my Facebook album here. |
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